Fishing boat bobbing sea

It is nearly time to leave Gokarna and catch the night train to Mumbai. It is easy to spend longer than planned in some parts of India. This town's beginning to feel a little like home to us, and we're falling into its unhurried rhythm.
A trip along the beach took us to a fleet of shipping boats- it was one of these occasions where you say, "let's just get to that next corner, and see what's around it". These are the best kind of walks. We passed a baba (holy man) in bright orange, utterly still, meditating as the sun set. As we approached the pretty boats the fishermen waved, and came up to us. Some of the younger boys asked for pens which we exchanged for a handful of peanuts.
On our way back we found a large dead turtle washed up on the shore. In the distance it looked turtle shaped but we couldn't believe it until we got closer; his shell was broken and his eyes shut tight. Poor thing. We half expected him to trundle off back to the waves. But no, not him, not this turtle!

On another day we all piled into a taxi and took a one hour drive to Murudeshwar, where there is a Hindu temple and a giant statue of Shiva, who sits amongst the hills in meditation. To convey the scale: we were probably no bigger than one of his toes! He has a beautiful, serene expression and in the evening the stone looks blue. There were several other impressive statues; one of a chariot pulled by four horses and another depicting a banyan tree under which sat Shiva and his son, Ganesh.

Boomshanka!

The picture shows a street seller in the shade of one of the two juggernaughts in Gokarna. In the top right corner, can you see the monkey? Later today we are going to visit Kudle Beach. There is another beach further down the coast called Om, due to it's '3' shape. A boat will take you there for Rs50.

Justin is due to arrive in the early evening tomorrow. We've all been imagining what it would be like to stay in a place like this during the rainy season, hunkered down (sorry, been spending a lot of time with an American!) in a little house, writing or painting.

Where we are staying there is a nearby temple from which we often hear chanting; our room is also quite echoey so we're constantly singing. We are hand washing our clothes on a washing stone just outside. Rhiannon is considering extending her trip by two weeks in order to do a Vipassana meditation course. Boomshanka!

Goa to Gokarna

We finally managed to leave the beautiful Arambol and caught the train to Gokarna, Karnataka. The journey was exciting, travelling through palm tree forests, tunnels under mountains and wide open lakes. When we arrived in Gokarna, it was festival time so we struggled through the crowds with our rucksacks in the intense heat. We didn't really know where we were headed so we followed the stream of people past a massive decorated juggernaught and dancers with whips! We found a peaceful guest house with cool stone floors and palm trees outside. The only problem is the cockroaches which we have to chase out of our room nightly.

Gokarna is a Hindu town, and everywhere there are depictions and statues of Shiva, Krishna, Kali, Ganesh and a host of other goddesses and gods. There are busy night markets full of light and sound, and a river that one evening was swarming with baby catfish.

We've visited the Ayurvedic health centre where two lovely girls gave us a steam bath and facial massage, all the time chatting in sweet Hindi voices.

Our plans for the next leg of the journey are pretty vague, we would like to see Kerala, Mumbai and Varanasi but may not have time for all.

Elen's Arrival

Hi from all three of us! We've had some unusual experiences here in Goa- and have also spent a lot of time swimming and enjoying the lazy beach life- the only option when it gets to the heat of the day. The little cafe's and bars are all temporary, for the season, and everyone is on the move, whether tourist, traveller, worker or holy man.
It was wonderful meeting Elen at the airport- suddenly there she was smiling! On our way back to Arambol by taxi we saw our first Indian elephant! The experience of seeing India for the first time was quite overwhelming. Thick-leaved trees, bright pink flowers, dwellings that range from a tent to a jungle palace and thousands of faces. The feel of the air is like walking into a hot-house in Kew Gardens and the scent hits you the second you step out of the plane.
A few nights ago Elen and Rhiannon had a crazy adventure when we went on a 'guided' tour into the jungle. After a steep climb we encountered a temple with candle lit statues of gods where we sat to watch the sun rise. Our goal was to reach Sweet Lake (which means fresh water) but our journey went on and on through thickening forest, cacti and steep boulders. In the end, our confused and apologising guide was saved by a pack of semi-wild dogs who led us to the river. With some relief we began to see signs of human life- travellers who make their homes in the jungle.
On another day, all three of us visited the same place (much easier to reach along the beach) and had a mud bath!

Anjuna Beach

Arriving in Panaji, Goa, we find it strange to be surrounded by clothes shops, Western cafe's and churches: there is a sad lack of cow traffic.

Now we are in Anjuna, on the coast. Here is less modernised, and the bizarre contrasts between old and new (as is obvious throughout India) are again noticed.

It is a beautiful, quirky place. The sea is warm and everything is said with a smile.